0230 bed, 0515 wake up. I just laid there for 15 minutes, kind of with a numbed sensation all over. It was like I had been teased with sleep and was going through some sort of torture test, but this was only the beginning of the endurance test…
As I was just dressed, Donat knocked came in and said “Time for airport.” So, Canazui had two bags with him on his moped, and I had the big bag, while on the back of Donat’s bike. We left the place called home, Reciproka, just as colour began to smear across the oily black skies. Just after 06oo heures, the day was now the main power at play and we got to the airport. Here, I did not realise Canazui was not going to come in, so I did not say goodbye to him. So, I know you will never read this, but goodbye Canazui, I hope you were finally able to get your driver’s license, but to that extent I would like to give a national warning to Burkina Faso, especially if you are a female.
In the airport, Donat waited aside while I sent off the check in gear, getting back to Donat, Yvonne was now present. The way things had gotten sorted, I was only able to spend maybe 5 minutes with the two, before check in began to close.
Saying goodbyes, actually more precisely, saying ‘au revoirs’ we all went our own way. I was wearing the clothes that would allow for me to carry an extra 2.5kgs worth of gear: Cargo army pants, fisherman’s’ vested jacket and the mild cold jacket. These guys were all bursting at their seam to try and save both room and weight: Books, easily moldable clothes and anything that would not be confiscated otherwise.
One thing that I nearly did wrong was go on a plane to Paris, and not to Amsterdam (Schiphol). The lady was unable to speak English and the words she was using in French were ones I was not familiar with. I sat back and stripped off the layers. Even though it was yet 07oo, it was already becoming, yet again, a balmy day. The people beside me thought otherwise, having a couple of hot teas each and enjoying the steamy goodness. One thing I did not think of until Ghana: My excess currency. The West African Franc is not exactly an Internationally tradable currency, and I found this out the hard way for the next few months.
On the plane, it was say 80% black and 20% white. I did not take note of this at first and aimed for the first two vacant seats to stretch out on. This is going to sound rude, but one thing I quickly realised: Black people on these flights, and from these regions, if they had to share, would share with fellow black people. On the other hand, white people would go about to try and get their own two seats.
The flight had a slight delay, as they stated they had to wait for a passenger. This passenger, also a Nasara, ended up sitting diagonally behind me across from the aisle. In front of him was a white guy he knew from previous African flights.
Collapsing, I knew I would not be able to sleep, mostly because I enjoyed listening to the French and English language amongst independent parties. I set my coat as a pillow and tried to ease the numbness of the body by sleeping, but hunger prevailed. There were chocolate flavoured croissants on the agenda for breakfast, and while not my most recommended food, it definitely went down well with the Diet Coke and Apple Juice. I’m telling you, the foods are not exactly looked at to healthily compliment either each other or the essentials for a good diet.
After ravishing this supply, I went back to pretending to be asleep, but was now getting caught up with the conversation of the two white guys. One sounded like he was typically working the cabin for his daily job, and the other was a guy involved in the optimisation of various companies, I think. And right now he was involved with the West African Pharmaceuticals, I think. What it was that he did sounded like a fairly cruisy job on one hand and being able to take advantage of the lavish life style, but a little bit of a personal risk occupation. In the plane circumstances he would typically be carrying sums of money anywhere between £5,000 to 50.000£. At times he would carry even more, but this was, for him, fortunately rare.
Money man’s name may have been Chris, and the guy across from me Mark. This is how we got to know each other: ‘Hey do you think he speaks English or French?”I don’t know, but it sure likes his out of it.,’ they said a few more things along these lines, when I thought it high time to let them in on a greeting. We all introduced ourselves, and the usual stranger just meet circumstance, then we continued with their telling stories of past and future.
Mark had, on several occasions, been a part of the cabin crew when Chris had been on the flights throughout Africa. I think Chris now expected to cause issues with his money, because this is how Chris and Mark first got to know each other. Also speaking the same language helps in this vast continent. With Chris, once again, being the final person on board, Mark had not been surprised and was in fact anticipating the passenger to be.
Some stories discussed: Chris, I think mentioned of the man who lived 3 hours south of the Hamburg airport on a farm. Suddenly this man felt sick, then better, then sick again, then he died. Forensics discovered that he had been infected with Malaria, and the strand was one from Africa. So, apparently this critter had been transported and found itself in Hamburg. These guys live a life of about 3 weeks (or 3 days?), but this was long enough to be able to get to this innocent Deutschelander.
These guys both had a number of crazy stories of their experiences, and one that got me scratching my head was how Mark was going to be part of a crew that would be serving flights in between UAE and Bagdad. Either he wanted some real adventure, or there was some other incentive, but whatever it was, I think it would be awesome to be a part of the corkscrew landing sequence. This technique is not meant to be healthy for individuals, so after extensive tests, these people in the crew are only allowed to do a limited number of weeks, either in total or for a duration of time.
Talking to Mark, it sounded like he had more to life then to just have a long life in the air. This was 100% true as well. He had previously been in the legal industry of South Africa and had gone by experiencing some daunting experiences (the friend in jail actually tore me apart hearing, as did a guys one way rail trip, and another legal advisor’s incentives for staying as a legal advisor and thus becoming hardened both on the inside and the outside.
Wanting to see more of a sense of humanity, and experiencing the world, he became a cabin crew member. This would take him away from his daughter occasionally, but allow for more extended times with her when he was in between flight paths.
Knowing these guys too had one little perk: double seconds, thus having three times the normal amount for brekkie. This obviously was not the reason for the initial meeting but the lady saw we had been talking and seemed to warm up to me slightly. The other good thing about knowing Mark was that he was giving all of the points away with reasons why certain things were done by the cabin crew, as well as the most optimal way and how little signs, or similar, were means of determining things. One thing that got everyone a little started on the flight was when the lady asked us to breathe through our shirts while she went about spraying. From the front of plane the lady went about spraying a substance in the air. There had been some sort of scare of some sort of creature on the plane, and no man in Germany wanted to be dead again.
With the plane landed, Mark was able to go the special way as he claimed to be in his duty as a worker, involving the jacket that stated his airline, Air Burkina (what we just flew) and he got all the special treatments. Chris and I however, ended up somehow getting royally shafted and some how got from being halfway up, we were at the back. We were in the last several people that were checked at immigration. Now, out of curiosity, what would my life be without some minor hassle between governments. (As of the end of 2007, it was up to near half a dozen conflicts between several goverments: British once, Australian two or three times, Ghanan this time. I think this is all for now)
When it was my turn to get passed through the immigration they asked why I had no visa, I said I was in a flight for this evening, nine hours away, and intend to bunk up at the airport and enjoy some airport cuisine. For one reason or another this was not acceptable. They said that I should pay money, and I said I will not. I got taken away to the section that delt with ‘transfer flights’ and here I waited a short while. Once again a guy stated that I should be paying, and I reiterated I was not going to pay 20 USD to sit in an International governed zone, according to various agencies. Yep, that is right guys, airports are not official representations of a country’s ability of proving their authority, it is under, to some extent, International laws.
Thus, the wait began. Tick tock, or in Japan tock tick, due to the linguistical variation of their language. After another 20 minutes, I was surprised by Mark appearing, and like me he seemed royally pissed. He has dealt with many African nations at their borders and said that the Ghanan continued being one of the worst at the airport borders to those they feel they could take advantage of. Both Mark and I had argued with one of the officials and this turned out near useless, but he did get his superior officer to try and scare us. Mark gave the notion that I should be a fellow worker, but just in between legs. This worked, and the some what unbothered, but pretending to be over exerting, officer let us loose. This is where the next issue comes into play: “But first I need to get my luggage!” “Where is your luggage?” “At the baggage claim” “Then you have to pay for the visa.” “No”
Mark and I talked some more and this is what Mark, the bloody genious, came up with: “Actually, here is your luggage Ben, I grabbed yours to drop it off, but now I need to go and get my stuff.” So Mark went back and collected my bag for me. Yea, it was obviously a very played at situation, but we had kind of played at their own game. Where would I be if it weren’t for Mark? Would there have been some Australian versus Ghanian conflict? I doubt it, but it would be good to imagine.
So, the exerted officer escorted me via the way and said “The other guy should know where to go.” So he obviously knew we had been playing at his game a little. This is where once again I got some minor butterflies in my stomach, what if Mark was in some illicit trade, and I was going to be done for? Ah, that would be OK, because if I was done for anything, then he would not know what to say about my bag veing half full of fluids for my medication. Nah, there was no problem anyway.
As I was sorting everything out, Mark came around with my gear, you beaut. With this all done, we skipped through the departure gate with the security officer and had to stay near him as he waved us through the various departure security measures. Then, after all this intense security precautions being taken, he just pointed at some restuarant and said “You should stay there, that is the transfer lounge.”
When one has a little under 8 hours remaining, with another guy, what would you normally do in a restuarant that sells various beers? Well, if you didn’t know, we went through a number of beers, while there were a number of bags surrounding us. For a good 5 hours we stayed here, got to know the bar person, had possibly 7 or so beers and grabbed some food. This is where once again, I was astounded by Mark’s ease of generosity, Before we had even started the drinking/ eating session, he said that it would all be on him. He kind of had an idea that I did not have any Ghanan, or USA currency. As a means of saying thank you, it was not much, I handed him some Aussie currency, as he would normally surprise his daughter with various currencies with various denominations. I think this was the first Aussie note he had recieved.
In response to receiving some Australian currency he reached into his pocket and pulled out some South African currency. This, I think, is no longer with me along the travels due to sending it away. I have to say though, the lack of sleep did not feel too bad, and the company was a good reason to stay awake. Mark, if you read this, your a bloody champ.